German Cooking Today Read online

  If you do not need to use the meat immediately, you can wrap it up and freeze it. To use the frozen meat, leave it to defrost covered in the fridge and immediately pour away any water resulting from the thawing (because of the danger of salmonella). Once thawed, the meat must be prepared immediately. Never freeze it a second time.

  When buying pre-packaged meat, check the best-before date and the recommended storage temperature indicated on the package.

  Coating in breadcrumbs

  Anything coated in breadcrumbs is protected by its coating from drying out during the frying process. In addition, the breadcrumbs create a delicious, tasty crust. Coating in breadcrumbs is particularly suitable for individual portions such as schnitzels and chops.

  To coat in breadcrumbs: Prepare three shallow bowls. Put flour in the first one, one or more eggs (depending on the amount of meat to be coated) whisked with a fork in the second one, and breadcrumbs in the third one. Rinse the pieces of meat and dab them dry in the flour. Then turn each one over in the egg and press it lightly in the breadcrumbs. Shake off any excess breadcrumbs because they would burn during the frying process. Fry the breadcrumb-coated meat immediately to prevent the coating from becoming soggy. You can also add grated cheese to the breadcrumbs. Or alternatively coat the meat in sesame seeds, grated coconut, crushed corn flakes or finely chopped nut kernels, almonds or sunflower seeds.

  Cooking methods

  Frying

  Frying means cooking and browning in shallow fat. This method of cooking can be used for cooking individual portions such as schnitzels, chops and steaks. The meat can be fried uncoated in its natural state, or coated in flour or in breadcrumbs. Heat the fat (edible oil, clarified butter or vegetable fat) in a frying pan.

  Put the seasoned meat (which has first been rinsed in cold running water and then patted dry) in the hot oil or fat so that the pores close up quickly and the meat remains tender.

  Fry the meat until golden brown and crisp on one side.

  Only turn the meat when it comes easily off the bottom of the pan.

  Fry the meat until it is golden brown on both sides.

  Only salt the meat and add the onions after frying because they draw out water.

  Take the meat you have just fried out of the pan and briefly drain it on kitchen paper in order to remove excess fat. Serve immediately or cover and keep in a warm place.

  To make the sauce: Loosen the cooking deposits with a little liquid, such as water, stock, wine or whipping cream, and deglaze. If desired, thicken it with a roux, starch or gravy thickener, for instance.

  Roasting in the oven

  When roasting in the oven, the meat is cooked and browned in the oven in an uncovered container with or without the addition of fat. This cooking method is particularly suitable for larger pieces of meat such as roasts and poultry. Preheat the oven to the temperature indicated in the recipe.

  Put the drip pan in the oven on the bottom shelf and, if desired, add a little water.

  Place the prepared, seasoned roast in the drip pan or on a roasting grid over the drip pan.

  When the roasting juices begin to brown and thicken, and any liquid added has evaporated, add more liquid, preferably hot.

  During the roasting process, baste the meat with the cooking juices from time to time.

  Another method consists of browning the meat in hot oil in a casserole on top of the cooker. The roast is then transferred to the oven to complete the roasting process. Here, too, it is important to replace the liquid which has evaporated and baste the roast with the cooking juices from time to time.

  Earthenware cooking pots or cooking bricks are also ideally suited for roasting in the oven. Put the meat in the earthenware container which has been previously soaked in water, cover with the lid, then put it in the cold oven (please follow the manufacturer’s instructions). You can also cook roasts in the oven in roasting bags or in foil (again, follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

  In order to ensure that the meat remains tender, you can use the low-temperature cooking method, using a meat thermometer to maintain the correct temperature. Brown the meat to be roasted in a casserole on top of the cooker, then cook it uncovered in a very cool oven, preheated to 80 °C/ 180 °F, or 70 °C/160 °F in a fan oven, for about 4 hours. There is no need to baste with this method. When using this cooking method it is important that the temperature remains absolutely constant. This is why it is essential to use a meat thermometer. At the end of the cooking time the temperature in the centre of the meat should be at least 60 °C/140 °F. This method is only suitable for beef and lamb roasts. Other kinds of meat need a higher temperature.

  Braising

  Braising consists first in browning the meat in hot fat, then simmering it in very little liquid and steam. Braised dishes can be cooked either on top of the cooker or in the oven in a well-sealed casserole. Rinse the meat under cold water, pat dry and season. Then brown the meat in hot oil.

  Add the onions, green vegetables (if any) and fry.

  Add some hot liquid (for instance, water, stock or wine). The liquid should only cover one quarter of the meat at the most.

  Reduce the temperature, cover and braise on top of the cooker or braise in the preheated oven.

  Add liquid regularly to replace what has evaporated.

  Cooking (boiling)

  Boiling means cooking meat (for instance, boiled beef) in a large quantity of boiling liquid (water or stock, sometimes mixed with vinegar or wine). Bring sufficient liquid to the boil (with green vegetables if the recipe requires it) in a pan to cover the meat completely or almost completely.

  Rinse the meat under cold water and put the meat in the boiling liquid. The pores of the meat will close immediately so that very little meat juice will be exuded, thus ensuring that the meat remains tender.

  Cook the meat with the lid on so that the temperature remains constant at a simmering point. This means that the liquid should barely bubble.

  The remaining cooking liquid can be used in another dish or frozen for later use.

  Testing the cooking

  There are several ways to test whether the meat is properly cooked. For instance, you can use a meat thermometer, available in hardware shops or any shop selling household goods, to check the internal temperature. Another way is to judge from the colour of the juice produced when cutting the meat: when the meat is sufficiently cooked, the meat juices run clear and no longer pink or red. You can also check whether meat is cooked by pressing a spoon onto the meat:

  soft: the meat is still red inside (the spoon sinks in easily)

  springy: the meat is pink inside (the spoon sinks in a little)

  firm: the meat is cooked through (the spoon does not sink in).

  Carving the meat Large pieces of meat such as roasts, and also steaks, should be covered with a large bowl or wrapped in aluminium foil and left to rest for at least 10 minutes before being carved so that the meat juices are distributed throughout the meat.

  Always cut the meat across the fibres. Reserve any meat juices which may be produced while the meat is resting and being carved, and use to make the gravy.

  Beef

  Depending on the age of the animal, we distinguish between: calves (male and female animals not fully grown, up to about 12 months old).

  heifers (15 months to 2 years old)

  oxen (2 to 3 years old).

  cows and bulls (2 years up to over 5 years old)

  The meat produced by young animals is bright light red or brick red in colour with small white to light yellow streaks of fat. The cut surface is shiny and the texture is fine to mediumfine. The meat of older animals is dark reddish-brown in colour with yellowish fatty streaks and a coarser texture. Beef must be well hung. Hanging means that the bled meat of the freshly slaughtered animal is hung in a well-ventilated room at a temperature of between 1–3 °C/ 34–37 °F for a period ranging from a few days to a few weeks, depending on the cut of meat and its purpose, to tenderize the meat. But
poultry should never be hung because it goes off very quickly.

  Suitable cuts for roasting are:

  Sirloin, fillet, rib roast, topside, silverside, top rump, thick flank and rump roast.

  Suitable cuts for braising are:

  Topside, rump ox, rolled ribs, rump roast, shoulder-tip and shoulder.

  Suitable cuts for frying and grilling are:

  Slices cut from the rib (entrecôte steak), sirloin steak, rump steak, fillet steak (châteaubriand), thick flank, rump roast and liver.

  Suitable cuts for boiling are:

  Chine, neck, breast, ribs, flat or rolled ribs, shoulder, flank, knuckle and tail, lungs, heart, tongue, kidneys.

  Cuts of beef

  Neck

  With marbled muscle meat and strong fibres.

  Rib roast

  The most tender steaks come from this part of the cut.

  Sirloin

  From the middle part of the back. Divided into rump steaks and entrecôtes.

  Thick flank

  Lean muscle meat, ideal for braising, for large roulades and goulash.

  Flank

  Marbled with sinews and fat.

  Fillet

  The most expensive cut. Very tender and therefore ideal for steaks.

  Top rump

  Lean cut from near the tail. Top end of the price range.

  Neck and clod

  Lower part of the neck.

  Topside

  Lean cut from the leg, marbled with fine fatty streaks.

  Rolled ribs

  Cut from behind the front leg.

  Knuckle

  Lean, containing sinews. The marrow in the bone has a high fat content.

  Brisket

  This is sold boned and rolled for roasting or braising. Also ideal for casseroles.

  Shoulder cut

  Tender cut from the front leg. Rather coarse textured, ideal for boiled beef.

  Thin flank

  Ideal for boiled beef.

  Beef steaks

  Fillet steak

  Particularly tender, this is cut from the middle part of the fillet. Weight: 150–200 g/5–7 oz, thickness 3–4 cm/11⁄4–11⁄2 in.

  Chateaubriand

  Double fillet steak. Weight: about 400 g/14 oz (enough for two people), thickness: about 8 cm/3 in. This is eaten very rare.

  Rump steak

  This is cut from the flat part of the sirloin. It has a thin fatty border which is notched before frying. Weight: 200–250 g/7–9 oz, thickness: 2–3 cm/3⁄4 in–11⁄4 in.

  Topside steak

  This is cut from topside. Weight: about 200 g/7 oz, thickness: 2–3 cm/3⁄4 in–11⁄4 in.

  Veal

  Veal comes from young animals less than 4 months old and up to 150 kg/330 lb in weight. Veal is delicate in texture with a light red colour (contains iron) and is lean to low in fat.

  Suitable cuts for frying and grilling are:

  Slices of fillet, rump, loin, best end of neck, liver, kidneys.

  Suitable cuts for boiling are:

  Scrag end of neck, breast, knuckle, liver, tongue, heart.

  Suitable cuts for roasting are:

  Leg, knuckle, loin, chine, fillet, breast.

  Suitable cuts for braising are:

  Breast, scrag end, shoulder, knuckle.

  Veal cuts

  Scrag end

  Tender, short-fibered cut, usually sold on the bone.

  Topside fillet

  Tender cut, ideal for roasting. Cut into slices, it is excellent for schnitzel.

  Rack of veal (middle neck, best end)

  The fillet is removed and sold separately.

  Breast

  In fattened calves, this is well covered with meat.

  Fillet

  High quality roasting cut from the leg. Also ideal for cutlets.

  Knuckle

  Streaked with lean muscle and sinews.

  Pork

  Pork usually comes from animals less than one year old, which have not yet reached sexual maturity. It tastes best when freshly slaughtered. In young animals, the meat is pale red to pinkish red with a delicate texture, ranging from lean to slightly marbled with thin fatty streaks. The meat of older animals is a darker red and relatively coarse fibered.

  Suitable cuts for boiling are:

  Belly, knuckle, tongue, heart, kidneys.

  Suitable cuts for frying and grilling are:

  Knuckle, fillet, leg (knuckle) end, fillet, leg fillet end, spare rib.

  Suitable cuts for braising are:

  Shoulder, breast (rib cut), belly, knuckle, liver, kidneys, heart.

  Pork cuts

  Knuckle

  Contains a high proportion of bone and sinews; can be boiled or roasted.

  Fillet

  Lean, slightly dry, coarse textured cut from the leg. Traditional cut used for schnitzel.

  Chine

  Tender cut, streaked with fat.

  Shoulder

  Traditional cut for roasting.

  Loin

  Relatively lean meat with a regular texture. Prepared as chops with the bones, or as roast or steak without the bones. When boned it can also be salted and smoked and served as smoked loin of pork.

  Spare ribs

  Continuation of the loin.

  Belly

  Tender, long-fibered cut, streaked with fat. Some of the leaner cuts are also sold for grilling. It is also processed as streaky bacon.

  Tenderloin

  Very tender, lean cut. Top of the price range.

  Leg knuckle end, hock

  Top part of the leg. A cut with a fatty rind.

  Ham

  Lean, tender cut from the leg. Traditional cut used for preserving and smoking.

  Fillet

  Particularly tender cut from the leg. Top of the price range.

  Lamb

  There is fresh lamb (raised in the region) and deep-frozen lamb (mostly from New Zealand). You can buy fresh lamb either from the butcher (if necessary order in advance) or in Turkish and Greek shops. Milk-fed or baby lambs are under 3 months old and have not yet been weaned. The meat is brick-red with a delicate texture and very little fat. Ordinary lambs have been weaned and fattened up and are no more then 1 year old. The meat is brick red with only a little white, yellowish fat and delicate texture.

  Mutton: the meat is dark red with a coarse texture, and has a very strong taste and a yellow layer of fat.

  Suitable cuts for roasting are:

  Leg, saddle, loin (chops).

  Suitable cuts for braising are:

  Leg, chine, breast, shoulder, shanks.

  Suitable cuts for frying and grilling are:

  Loin chops, shoulder and leg steaks, fillet, noisettes.

  Suitable cuts for boiling are:

  Scrag end of neck, middle neck, breast, shoulder, belly, knuckle.

  Lamb cuts

  Neck (scrag end of neck, middle neck, chine)

  Tender, short-fibered cut, marbled with fat. Suitable for goulash and minced meat.

  Shoulder

  Slightly streaked with sinews. Tender and juicy. Middle price range.

  Leg

  Relatively lean, very tender, juicy cut. Top of the price range.

  Loin/saddle

  A succulent, juicy cut, usually served as chops or cutlets.

  Rib chops

  From below the loin. Top of the price range.

  Noisettes

  Boned rib or loin chops.

  Minced meat

  Minced meat can be made from any kind of meat. However, minced meat sold in shops is made from beef, pork and lamb, and not from game and poultry. The percentage of fat in mince varies. Mince must be carefully prepared and stored because its considerably increased surface area provides an ideal breeding ground for micro-organisms, so it can go bad very quickly. For this reason it should be processed as quickly as possible after it has been bought.

  Types of mince

  Ground beef (for beefburgers or steak tartare)
/>   Pure, finely minced beef from which all visible fat and connective tissues have been carefully removed. It has a maximum fat content of 6%.

  Minced beef

  Beef with a fat content of up to 20%.

  Minced pork

  Has a maximum fat content of 35%.

  Seasoned pork

  Minced pork seasoned with various condiments, for instance with spices, salt and onions.

  Mixed mince

  Consists of 50% minced beef and 50% minced pork and has a maximum fat content of 30%.

  In order to ensure a light consistency, you can add and stir into the meat a roll, soaked in milk and pressed to remove excess liquid, or 1 large mashed potato, or 1–2 tablespoons of cooked rice or bulgar (wheat grains), or a few tablespoons of curd cheese, or 2 tablespoons soaked, drained cereals (for instance oats) per 500 g/18 oz mince. Minced meat can be prepared in various shapes, for instance as a meat loaf, “steak hâché”, rissoles or meat balls. Always moisten your hands with a little water before handling or shaping the mince.

  Rabbit

  A young, fattened rabbit is slaughtered when it reaches a weight ranging between 1.3–1.7 kg/23⁄4–33⁄4 lb. As well as whole ready-to-cook rabbit, rabbit pieces (particularly legs and saddle) are readily available.

  Cutting up a rabbit Place the ready-to-cook rabbit on its back on a chopping board.

  Make a cut in the front and back legs using a sharp knife, and detach from the body by pulling the joints downward vigorously and cutting them off.

  Separate the thin flanks from the back, using a sharp knife or kitchen scissors.

  Offal

  The liver, tongue, heart, brains, sweetbreads (thymus gland), kidneys, tripe, lungs, spleen, udder and stomach of many animals are all edible. Offal is usually low in fat and rich in protein, vitamins and minerals, but it is also high in cholesterol and uric acid. Some kinds of offal are considered delicacies in many countries. But because they can suffer heavy metal pollution (especially the liver and the kidneys), they should not be consumed too often, at most once a month. When buying offal make sure that it comes from young animals because it will be more tender and less polluted.